We continue our series of coverage of the early capital of the Hoysala empire, Belur. The glorious capital of the 11th – 14th century AD, Belur, today stands as a small town in the southern state of Karnataka.
Not much of the glorious era survives in Belur. However you will see the 900 year old Channakeshava temple of the Hoysalas. A temple that took 103 years to be built, spanning 3 generations of Hoysala royalty!
This 12th-century architectural marvel, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is a stunning example of Hoysala artistry, renowned for its intricate carvings and sculptures. Originally built to commemorate a pivotal Hoysala victory over the once mighty Cholas, the temple has become a revered pilgrimage site for Hindus, especially devotees of Lord Vishnu.
In this post we present to you a guide of what to expect when you visit the temple.
READ more: Belur Channakeshava Temple: Is it worth visiting?
The temple Gopuram
What is a Gopuram?
A gopuram (also gopura) is a monumental entrance tower typically found in South Indian temple architecture. These towers are usually quite tall and ornate, often dwarfing the central shrine of the temple itself.
You are greeted by a 5-tier gopuram. The gopuram or the entrance is said to have been built later by the Vijayanagara empire in 1397 AD. A flight of about 10 steps or so lead you from the road to the gopuram, where you leave your footwear and then enter the temple complex.
It is customary and respectful for people to leave their footwear before you enter temples and other places of reverence. It is common in India. In general, there is a footwear stand who charge a nominal fee to look after your footwear.
What is Garuda Stambh (pillar)
The Channakeshava temple is dedicated to Lord Vishnu, one of the trinity of supreme dieties in Hinduism. Garuda is believed to be the divine devotee, vehicle of Lord Vishnu. Garuda’s devotion for Lord Vishnu is eternal and selfless.
Upon walking through the Gopuram, you will find Lord Garuda standing with his palms folded in devotion facing the main temple where the deity, Lord Vishnu resides. The sculpture of Lord Garuda is marked with visible devotion and single minded dedication to Vishnu.
It is likely that the Garuda stambh may not have been a part of the Hoysala construction but, was built later by the Vijayanagara king along with the Gopuram in 1397 AD.
Kappe Chennigaraya temple
The temple was constructed by Hoysala Queen Shantaladevi in 1117 A.D. It was begun at the same time her husband, King Vishnuvardhana started the construction of the main Channakeshava temple in the same complex.
The post here by Yatrikaone has a well researched article on the history and details of the temple here. This temple is a smaller and less ornate version of the main temple. Local guides describe this as a prototype of the main temple that took 18 years to complete!
While the main temple is ekakuta temple, meaning there is a single inner sanctum (garbhagriha) where the deity resides, the Kappe Chennigaraya temple is dwikuta, meaning it has two inner sanctums. One of them has the life size statue of Channakeshava and another has a life size statue of Venugopal. Both deities are forms of Lord Vishnu.
READ the legend of Jakanachari, the master sculptor of Hoysalas
Channakeshava Temple
The main Channakeshava temple is an exquisite specimen of Hoysala sculpture and art. The temple was commissioned for construction in 1117 AD by the Hoysala king Vishnuvardhan. On the 20th of March, 1117 AD, the king consecrated the deity. This temple took an astounding 103 years to be constructed.
After the Hoysalas fell in the 14th century, the temple was looked after by the mighty Vijayanagara empire and augmented further with time.
What material is the temple made of?
The Belur temple is made of Soapstone. Soapstone is a soft material till it settles down. Being soft it is amenable to fine carvings and sculptures. However, with time as the material settles in, the material hardens and becomes like granite.
Sculptures and carvings on exterior temple walls
The exterior of the walls of the main temples are a treat for the eyes. The art and sculptures on the walls are mesmerizing.
First 5 rows from the bottom of the walls contain a recurring patterns of animals.
Upwards of these 5 rows is a hypnotizing universe of sculptures. Let us look at a few of them!
Unique mentions!
To give you a sense of the finesse of the sculptures, let us look at a few of the them on the exterior walls.
Ravana lifting Mount Kailasha
Despite Ravana being the villain of epic Ramayana, he is respected as a one of the most learned and wise people who fell prey to his own ego and baser instincts. This sculpture depicts the episode of Ravana lifting the entire Kailash mountain with Lord Shiva and diving mother Parvati seated on top.
On Mount Kailash are engraved hundreds of fine details. The sculpture and its details will leave you spellbound.
Musical Sculpture: Arjuna hitting the fish eye in Mahabharata
This is the famous episode from the Mahabharata. The pandava hero Arjuna is seen shooting an arrow successfully into the eye of the fish on the ceiling.
This sculpture is musical – it emits a musical note on being stuck. Unfortunately the repeated striking of the sculpture over years has left it eroded.
Ugranarasimha killing Demon Hiranyakashyapu
Narasimha was the Kula devata (family deity) of the Hoysalas. As such, there are recurrences of Narasimha throughout Hoysala temples.
The story goes the demon could not be killed on earth, in water or air, with no weapons, not by man, gods or demons. So Lord Vishnu in his incarnation as Narasimha manifested as part lion and part human. He ripped Hiranyakashyapu’s stomach with his lion-like nails.
In this sculpture you see the demon lying on Lord Narasimha’s lap, while he is killed. His guts are out and across the shoulders of the Narasimha. On the lower left side, Lord Garuda, Vishnu’s eternal devotee looks at Narasimha fearfully with palms folded together.
Sculptures and carvings on temple interior
The only thing that gives the exterior of a run for its money is the temple interior. The interiors of the temple, right from the pillars to the statues of the deities and the amazingly intricate carvings on the ceiling will leave spellbound.
READ more Belur: Capital of the Hoysala Empire
Summary
The words and pictures do no justice to what awaits you in Belur. If you are interested in History, Art or India, Belur is a must visit place. Reach more about the Hoysalas beforehand. It will make your visit more enriched and enjoyable!
Do leave a comment if you want us to cover any other aspects of Belur and nearby places.
