The once capital of the mighty Badami Chalukyas still stands in the Bagalkot district of Karnataka. The Badami fort is atop the hills of Badami surrounding the peaceful Agastya lake.
You would be amazed to know that this lake is man-made. It was one of the most crucial infrastructural projects of the Chalukyas in the 5th century AD! It survives today, after 1500 years.
This trek originates near the famous Badami cave temples.
In this post, we take you through a blog based on our own experience and the Internet on what to expect on the trek and how to best plan it!
How long does the Fort Trek take?
The trek within the fort itself will perhaps take you between 1.5-2 hours. Of course it will depend on your physical fitness.
What should I carry with me?
The only thing important to carry along is some water. Since it may take some time for you to be back to your vehicle, water will be good when you are outdoors, trekking.
How many steps are there in the climb?
While I did not count the number and could not find authoritative figures, it would roughly take you about 400 steps scattered across places to climb up and then another flight of steps to come back down to the Agastya lake.
Are there monkeys along the trek?
Yes, you will find monkeys on the hill top and along the way. They were not intrusive when we went along. However our guide did tell us to be careful. As a general principle, it is a good idea to be careful of your belongings if you find monkeys around you.
How to reach the Fort?
The Badami fort is perhaps the one place that you will find a few important places colocated at walking distance.
As you travel from the main road, you enter into narrow roads that keep getting narrower till it opens up to reach the Agastya Lake.
Though the roads get narrower as you approach the lake, vehicles do reach the lake. Tourist buses do reach there. However, expect congestion, or perhaps take drivers who are aware of the place or get guidance from locals before reaching.
The Archeological (ASI) Museum
Your trek to the fort begins with entry into the ASI Museum compound. Stairs nearby lead you down to the lake. And stairs that rise from the museum take you up to the entrance of the fort.
The beauty of the place strikes you right here! The majesty of the hills and the human will to carve an enormous structure out of the rocks inspires you.
As you enter the gate, you notice rectangular holes on the top of the gate, which were created later for guns to be used from within the fort.
The stairs take you to an entirely different world. You are cut off from the narrow roads, the heat. The hills that surround you seem impenetrable.
The interiors of the fort are cool. The hills shield you. There are trees within the fort that will surprise you. How they find the water to grow and prosper from within these rocks?
Immediately upon entry, there is a narrow passage that leads you up to the top of the entrance hill. It leads you up to two twin structures. You get a spectacular view of the lake and the two famous Shivalayas!
However, make note that the stairs to the top are very narrow and can be a challenge to many. It is likely to be hard for elderly, not too fit people.
You will find two twin structures at the top. The utility of the structures is not known. However, you will get magnificent, panoramic shots that cover the Agastya lake, the cave temples and the Bhootnath temple from here!
The First Stairs
The Badami fort is expansive. The first set of steps begins leading you to the hills progressively. At points, it may begin to look daunting not knowing how far you have to go. Be patient and make a restful ascent.
Make sure you carry a bottle of water though. You will need it for the trek has just begun!
Visiting Lower Shivalaya
Carved in the 7th century, it is a Badami Chalukyan architectural marvel. Despite time’s touch, the intricate carvings and octagonal dome remain captivating. Originally dedicated to Lord Ganesha, the inner sanctum features a unique elliptical lotus-petaled pedestal.
This Shivalaya is said to have housed the famous Vatapi Ganapathi Idol. However, today the wherabouts of the idol are not known.
The deity resides in Uthrapathiswaraswamy Temple in Tiruvarur.
The story dates back to 642 AD when in the Battle of Vatapi, Paranjothi, the Commander of Narasimhavarman I, the Pallava King defeated the legendary Chalukyan Emperor Pulakeshin II and took over Vatapi (Badami). Pulakeshin was likely killed in the battle.
This idol was supposedly taken from the Lower Shivalaya by Paranjothi and installed in the Uthrapathiswaraswamy Temple in the King’s home town.
The lower shivalaya today is devoid of a deity. However the carvings along the structure indicate that Ganapathi used to reside here as a deity (though the temple is named Shivalaya!).
Visiting Upper Shivalaya
The Upper Shivalaya is a relatively larger structure. It was built in the 7th century. Being at the hill top, you will find an amazing panoramic view across Badami from here.
At the upper shivalaya, you see distinct carvings of Ugra Narasimha, Kumbhakarna, Krishna lifting the Govardhan and other scenes that subsequently became common in many Hoysalan, Vijaynagar architectures.
On your way to the Upper Shivalaya, you will come across large granary structures.
Descent
The descent from the top is trickier. The path is different from the stairs you use to climb up. The steps are higher and uneven. Be careful with these steps.
On the way back, you will come across a Hanuman temple on the hill. A few more steps and you are back to the lake!
The trek ends at a point near to where you started – back on the banks of the Agastya lake! You can continue from here and visit the Bhootnath temple before taking a break.
Conclusion
The climb is moderately difficult. It will take time and make you climb and descend lots of steps. It could be hard for the elderly and the not so fit.
However, it will give you a great satisfaction once you complete. The place is absolutely worth visiting and will give you a great idea of the Chalukyan times, their architecture and world.
If you are planning to be near northern Karnataka, make sure you make a day’s stop here!
Happy traveling!
